Everything You Need to Know to See Sossusvlei
Think of Namibia and chances are you picture the endless red dunes of Sossusvlei. But what is it exactly, and why is it so special? Sossusvlei, which means “dead-end marsh”, is a salty white pan surrounded by spectacular red dunes. They’re the biggest in the world, reaching up to 325 meters. The dunes block the 60-kilometer Tsauchab river from reaching the sea, though it’s so dry here that the river rarely flows at all.
Getting to Sossusvlei
Sossusvlei lies in the Namib-Naukluft National Park. The entrance is at a small settlement called Sesriem. Entry costs N$250 per person for foreigners, plus N$50 for the car; tickets are sold at the NWR office near the gate. The funny thing: you’ll drive a long way over dirt roads to reach the park, only to find a perfectly good tarred road waiting inside. The dirt roads are decent, though; any car can handle them.
From the gate, a 65-kilometer stretch of tar takes you past most of the highlights: Sesriem Canyon, Dune 45, Hiddenvlei and Big Daddy. There’s parking at each of them, sometimes even a toilet. You’re free to climb the dunes, just don’t get lost, and bring plenty of water. Keep an eye out for wildlife too, like the iconic oryx.
At the end of the tarred road, deep soft sand covers the last stretch to Sossusvlei itself. Here you genuinely need a 4x4 with deflated tyres. Tourists get stuck every single day (and yes, I got stuck too). The alternative: park at the end of the tar and take a shuttle to Deadvlei or Sossusvlei.
Sunrise and sunset: the best moments
The valleys are at their best at sunrise or sunset. The Sesriem gate opens earlier for guests staying at the Sesriem campsite, a simple site right next to the entrance. The more luxurious option is the Sossus Dune Lodge, beautifully set against the rocks with a view of Sesriem Canyon. Buy your park tickets a day ahead so you’re not queueing while the light is at its best.
Deadvlei
Deadvlei is magical at sunrise, when light slowly pours into the pan and sets the surrounding dunes glowing red. If you go on your own, bring a GPS or turn on an offline maps app. The wind erases yesterday’s footprints overnight, and it’s a real walk through the dunes to get there: about 1.1 kilometers through sand with a 20-meter climb. A little fitness helps.
Centuries ago, Deadvlei was a lake. When the shifting dunes cut off its water supply, it slowly dried out. The trees that grew there died, but in this heat and drought they never decomposed. They simply dried where they stood, and they’re still standing today. Some are more than a thousand years old.
Sossusvlei from above
There are other ways to see Sossusvlei. How about a hot air balloon? You’re picked up at your accommodation (as long as it’s reasonably close to the park) and launch from one of two sites depending on the wind, floating roughly 16 kilometers over the dunes. Hanging under a balloon while the desert slides by below is hard to beat. Want to cover more ground? A Cessna flight gives you a real sense of how vast the park and the dunes actually are. They fly from the airstrip near Sossusvlei Lodge, which is a great place to stay in its own right.