Stories from the field.

Travel journals, destination guides, photography tips and news.

Ground hornbill perched dead tree

Mana Pools: Wild Dog Paradise

The park where you can leave your car and walk up to wild dogs on foot. On sunsets with a pack in a dry riverbed, a walking safari along the Zambezi, and hyenas with a taste for flip-flops.

Giant kingfisher perched branch

The Great Migration: Waiting for a Mara River Crossing

Self-driving to the Masai Mara against all advice, 7.5 hours parked at the river, and the moment a thousand wildebeest finally crossed right in front of my lens.

Lioness stare golden hour

What to Bring on a Self-Drive Safari in Africa

Two-wheel drive or 4x4? How much water? And what do you do when you break down in the middle of nowhere? Practical lessons from driving South Africa to Kenya and back.